Glossary

Essential denim terminology explained

54 terms

Weaving

Broken Twill ブロークンツイル: A type of denim weave that alternates the direction of the diagonal lines in the twill pattern, typically every few warp threads. This was developed by 'Wrangler' in the 1960s to reduce twisting and improve comfort.; See also: Left-Hand Twill
Indigo Warp, Weft Black インディゴ経糸、ブラック緯糸: A denim construction where the warp threads are dyed with indigo, and the weft threads are dyed black. This results in a fabric that fades to a gray or purple hue rather than the typical blue.; See also: Indigo Dye Sulphur Dye
Left-Hand Twill 左綾ツイル: A denim weave (S-twill) where the diagonal lines run from the bottom right to the upper left. This construction yields a softer hand and a characteristic vertical fade, and is most associated with Lee.; See also: Right-Hand Twill Broken Twill
Rapier Loom レーピア織機: A modern type of loom that uses rigid or flexible rapiers to insert the weft thread. It is significantly faster than shuttle looms and is commonly used for mass-produced denim, often without selvedge edges.
Right-Hand Twill 右綾ツイル: The most common denim weave (Z-twill) where the diagonal lines run from the bottom left to the upper right. It is generally durable and tends to produce sharper, contrast-heavy fades; Levi's is the canonical example.; See also: Left-Hand Twill
Ring-Spun リングスパン: A method of spinning cotton yarns that creates a strong, fine, and soft thread with a slightly fuzzy surface. This contributes to the characteristic texture and superior fading of high-quality denim.; See also: Rope Dyeing
Selvedge セルヴィッジ: The self-finished edge of a fabric woven on a shuttle loom, preventing unraveling. Identified by the tightly woven band on the outseam of jeans.; See also: Shuttle Loom
Shuttle Loom シャトル織機: A traditional type of loom that uses a shuttle to carry the weft thread back and forth across the warp threads. This method, while slower, is crucial for producing the distinctive selvedge edge on denim fabric.
Slub Yarn スラブ糸: Yarn that has irregular thickness along its length, creating variations in texture and appearance in the woven fabric. This irregularity contributes to unique fading patterns over time.; See also: Ring-Spun

Fabric

Loomstate 生機（ルームステート）: Denim fabric directly off the loom, in its raw, untreated state. It has not been washed, dyed (beyond the initial indigo dip), or finished in any way. This is the purest form of denim.; See also: Raw Denim
Neppy Denim ネップデニム: Denim fabric characterized by small, nep-like lumps of fiber woven into the yarn. These 'neps' create a textured, speckled appearance and contribute to unique wear patterns.; See also: Slub Yarn
Raw Denim 生デニム: Denim that is sold in its 'raw', unwashed, and untreated state. It is expected to be worn extensively by the owner to develop unique fades and a personal fit.; See also: Loomstate
Unsanforized 防縮加工なし（アンサンフォライズド）: Denim fabric that has not undergone pre-shrinking treatment. It will shrink significantly when first washed, requiring careful sizing and washing practices.; See also: Sanforized

Dyeing

Indigo Dye インディゴ染め: A natural or synthetic dye known for its characteristic blue color and its tendency to fade in distinct patterns. It's the quintessential dye for denim, allowing for the creation of rich indigo hues and iconic wear patterns.; See also: Rope Dyeing
Overdyed オーバーダイ: Denim that has undergone an additional dyeing process after its initial construction. This can be done to add color, create unique shades, or cover up previous treatments.; See also: Sulphur Dye
Rope Dyeing ロープ染色: A dyeing process where yarns are bundled together and dipped repeatedly into an indigo dye bath, allowing the core of the yarn to remain undyed. This results in the classic 'ring-spun' fade where the white core shows through as the indigo wears away.; See also: Indigo Dye Ring-Spun
Sulphur Dye 硫化染め: A synthetic dye that produces a wide range of colors, especially blacks, browns, and grays, but can also be used for blues. It offers different fading characteristics than indigo, often resulting in more muted or uniform wear.

Construction

Bar Tack バータック: A series of closely spaced stitches in a back-and-forth pattern used to reinforce areas of high stress, such as pocket corners and the fly opening. This technique greatly increases the durability of the garment.
Chain Stitch チェーンステッチ: A sewing technique using a single thread looped through itself, creating a chain-like pattern on the underside. Produces characteristic roping effect on hems after washing.
Gauge 20 ゲージ20: A measurement referring to the thickness of the thread used in construction, with Gauge 20 indicating a medium-weight thread. Heavier gauges are used for more durable seams, especially on workwear.
Pocket Bag ポケットバッグ: The fabric lining of a pocket. In denim, these are often made from a lighter weight cotton twill, sometimes printed with brand logos or warnings.
Triple Needle トリプルニードル: A sewing technique using three parallel needles to create strong and distinctive seams, often seen on the back yoke or side seams of vintage jeans. It indicates robust construction.; See also: Bar Tack

Hardware

Cinch Strap シンチストラップ: An adjustable strap, often with a buckle, found on the back of early denim trousers to allow for waist size adjustment. It was common on work pants before the widespread adoption of belt loops.
Copper Rivets 銅リベット: Small metal fasteners used to reinforce stress points on denim garments, particularly pockets. Introduced by Levi Strauss & Co. around 1873, they are a hallmark of durable workwear.
Two Horse Patch ツーホースパッチ: The iconic leather patch on Levi's jeans from 1886 until 1955, depicting two horses attempting to pull apart a pair of jeans to demonstrate their strength. After 1955 the leather was replaced with a paper-based 'Jacron' material, but the two-horse motif itself remains in use today.
Waistband Patch ウエストバンドパッチ: A piece of leather or fabric attached to the inside of the waistband, typically displaying brand information, size, and care instructions. It serves as both identification and a reinforcement.; See also: Two Horse Patch

Anatomy

5-Pocket Design 5ポケットデザイン: The standard configuration of pockets on jeans: two in the back, two in the front, and a smaller watch pocket inside one of the front pockets. This design originated with Levi's in the late 19th century.
Big E ビッグE: Refers to the capital 'E' in 'LEVI'S' on the red tab of Levi's jeans, used before 1971. After 1971, it changed to a lowercase 'e' (small e).
Coin Pocket コインポケット: An alternative term for the watch pocket, emphasizing its modern use for holding coins. It is a standard feature of the 5-pocket jean design.; See also: Watch Pocket 5-Pocket Design
Inseam インシーム: The length of the inner leg of a pair of trousers, measured from the crotch seam to the hem. It's a key measurement for determining the fit and style of jeans.
Jean Jacket ジージャン: A denim jacket, typically with a collar, button front, and chest pockets. The Type III 'Trucker Jacket', introduced by Levi's in 1962 (Lot 557) and renumbered to Lot 70505 in 1967, is the most iconic modern example.
Outseam アウトシーム: The length of the outer leg of a pair of trousers, measured from the top of the waistband down to the hem along the side seam. This measurement contributes to the overall length and drape of the jeans.
Watch Pocket ウォッチポケット: A small, often hidden pocket located inside the right front pocket of jeans. It was originally designed to hold pocket watches but is now commonly used for coins or other small items.; See also: 5-Pocket Design

Silhouette

Bootcut ブーツカット: A silhouette that is relatively straight through the thigh and slightly flares out from the knee to the hem, designed to accommodate boots. It was particularly popular in the late 20th century.
Slim Fit スリムフィット: A modern silhouette characterized by a close fit through the seat and thigh, tapering slightly towards the ankle. It offers a more contemporary look without being overly skinny.
Straight Leg ストレートレッグ: A classic jean silhouette where the leg is cut straight from the knee down to the hem, offering a timeless and versatile fit. It's neither too tight nor too loose.
Tapered テーパード: A fit that is wider at the thigh and gradually narrows down towards the ankle. This silhouette provides a clean look and is often favored for its comfort and modern styling.
Wide Leg ワイドレッグ: A silhouette characterized by a generous cut through the entire leg, from thigh to hem, offering a relaxed and comfortable fit. This style has seen resurgences in popularity throughout denim history.

Finishing

Acid Wash アシッドウォッシュ: A variation of stone washing where denim is washed with chlorine bleach and pumice stones, creating a high-contrast, mottled faded effect. It was highly popular in the 1980s.; See also: Stone Wash
Honeycombs ハニカム: Fading patterns behind the knees that resemble a honeycomb structure. These are a result of creasing and wear over time, often artificially enhanced in modern jeans.; See also: Whiskers
One Wash ワンウォッシュ: Denim that has been washed once after dyeing and weaving, typically to remove sizing and pre-shrink the fabric. It offers a balance between the wear of raw denim and the comfort of pre-washed jeans.; See also: Pre-Wash
Pre-Wash プレウォッシュ: A finishing process where denim is washed before being sold to the consumer, resulting in a softer feel and a faded appearance. This contrasts with raw denim, which is sold in its original, untreated state.; See also: Stone Wash
Sanforized サンフォライズド: A patented mechanical pre-shrinking process that reduces the amount of shrinkage in denim after washing. Most modern denims are Sanforized for consistent sizing.; See also: Unsanforized
Stone Wash ストーンウォッシュ: A finishing technique where denim is washed with pumice stones to create a worn-in look and soften the fabric. The intensity and type of stone affect the resulting fade.; See also: Pre-Wash
Vintage Wash ヴィンテージウォッシュ: A finishing process designed to mimic the look and feel of well-worn vintage denim. It aims to replicate the fading, softness, and subtle imperfections of jeans that have been worn for decades.; See also: Pre-Wash Stone Wash
Whiskering ヒゲ加工: Artificial fading lines resembling whiskers, typically found radiating from the crotch area of jeans. This technique is part of the finishing process to simulate natural wear patterns.; See also: Whiskers
Whiskers ウィスカーズ: Fading patterns that resemble a cat's whiskers, typically found radiating from the crotch area of jeans. These are artificially created during the finishing process to mimic natural wear.; See also: Honeycombs

Production

Cone Mills コーンミルズ: A historic American denim mill, founded in 1891, renowned for producing high-quality denim for brands like Levi's for over a century. They were a major supplier of denim until their closure in 2017.
Kaihara Mills カイハラ: A leading Japanese denim manufacturer established in 1948, celebrated globally for its innovative weaving techniques and premium quality fabrics. They are known for producing both traditional and cutting-edge denim.
Limited Edition 限定版: Denim products produced in a restricted quantity, often featuring unique fabrics, washes, or collaborations. These items are typically highly collectible.

Era

1950s Denim 1950年代デニム: Denim from this era is characterized by its heavier weight, often 13-14 oz, and iconic details like Talon zipper and copper rivets. Styles like the Levi's 501XX saw significant evolution.; See also: Copper Rivets
1960s Denim 1960年代デニム: Denim from the 1960s saw the introduction of new weaves like broken twill and synthetic blends, alongside a shift towards more casual and fashion-oriented styles. The rise of rock and roll influenced denim aesthetics.; See also: Broken Twill

Condition

Deadstock デッドストック: New old stock (NOS). Vintage items that were never worn or used, still in original condition.
Worn-Out 着古した: Describes denim that has been heavily used and shows significant fading, fraying, and softening. This condition is often sought after by denim enthusiasts for its authentic character.; See also: Vintage Wash