【1968-1983】BIG JOHN M1002 and RARE: The Genesis of Japanese Jeans and Selvedge

Introduction — Why This Item is Culturally Significant

As denim evolved from mere workwear to a fashion icon and a culture of “growing” garments, one brand has etched numerous “firsts” into the history of Japanese jeans: BIG JOHN. In particular, the M1002, born in 1968, carries immense significance for the subsequent evolution of Japanese jeans and, by extension, Japanese Selvedge denim. This article will delve into the innovative journey of BIG JOHN, from the debut of the M1002 First Model in 1968, through the M1002 Japan-Model as the “Complete Japanese Jeans” with fabric and sewing entirely made in Japan, to the launch of the “RARE” line in 1983, which combined artificial slub yarn with Japanese Selvedge. Let’s unravel the historical significance of how the M1002 and the RARE concept laid the foundation for today’s premium denim scene.

Historical Context — Birth Year and Brand Context

BIG JOHN’s roots trace back to Maruo Clothing Inc., founded in Kojima, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture, in the 1940s. While initially starting with uniform manufacturing, the Japanese fashion scene underwent a significant transformation in the 1960s. In 1963, import restrictions were lifted, and American-made denim products began to flow into the Japanese market. In response, Maruo Clothing Inc. commenced the business of sewing jeans using denim fabric imported from the United States. This marked the dawn of “self-produced denim products” in Japan.

Amidst this, a prototype was trial-produced in 1967. Then, in 1968, the commemorative M1002 First Model was finally released. This M1002 (Straight), along with the M2002 (Bootcut) and M3002 (Slim), formed the “M Series.” The fabric used for the M1002 First Model was denim from Cone Mills in the USA. This signified the prevailing condition of Japanese jeans production at the time – “Japanese sewing, but not Japanese fabric” – highlighting the era when imported fabric combined with Japanese sewing was the dominant model for Japanese jeans.

Structural Details — Selvedge, Hardware, Stitching, Silhouette

The evolution of the M1002 is inseparable from its details.

M1002 First Model (1968)

Fabric: Cone Mills (USA) denim. While definitive information on the ounce weight at the time is not consistently found across various sources, it is presumed to have been fabric with the character of vintage denim.
Selvedge: The “red ear” specification, inherent to Cone Mills fabric.
Hardware: Rivets and button fly were incorporated. Specific materials and shapes may exhibit subtle variations among existing specimens.
Stitching: The stitching on the back pockets is believed to have followed the design trends of the era.
Silhouette: The M1002 is defined by the brand as a “straight” silhouette. By modern standards, it is presumed to have been a slightly relaxed, classic cut.

M1002 Japan-Model (1973)

A groundbreaking event in BIG JOHN’s history was the development of “KD-8,” Japan’s first domestically produced denim fabric, by Kurabo Mills in 1972. This KD-8, derived from “Kurabo Denim, 8th try,” was born through collaboration with BIG JOHN. Subsequently, in 1973, the M1002 Japan-Model, utilizing this KD-8, was released. This marked a milestone in Japanese jeans history as the “First Complete Japanese Jeans,” with both fabric and sewing completed entirely within Japan.

Fabric: KD-8 (Japanese Denim). Details regarding the ounce weight, whether Sanforized processing was applied, and if it was unsanforized (loomstate) can vary across sources, awaiting confirmation from primary documents. However, as a Japanese denim, it undoubtedly aimed for quality comparable to, or surpassing, American denim of the era.
Selvedge: Japanese Selvedge woven into the KD-8 fabric.
Hardware & Stitching: Elements that either continued from the M1002 First Model or showed improvements.
Silhouette: As the M1002 designation was carried over, it fundamentally maintained a straight silhouette, though minor adjustments may have been made.

RARE Line (Launched in 1983)

In 1983, BIG JOHN launched the innovative RARE line as an “artisan product.” This line, in its early stages, foreshadowed the burgeoning trend for authentic vintage reproduction denim in Japan (a trend that would later be spearheaded by brands like Studio D’Artisan).

Fabric: The most distinctive feature of the RARE line was the adoption of artificial slub yarns. This was an attempt to replicate the natural irregularity found in vintage denim. Furthermore, throughout the 1980s, BIG JOHN is credited with achieving the “world’s first vintage reproduction-style slub denim” and the “first Japanese Selvedge” by combining shuttle looms with intentionally irregular yarns. The cotton blend was of two US varieties, and the yarn was spun by Asahi Boseki KK in Osaka to custom specifications, including the twist and slub shape. Details such as the ounce weight, Sanforized/unsanforized status, and back pocket stitching specifications for early RARE models may vary by lot and year, requiring verification from primary sources.
Selvedge: Japanese Selvedge. This, combined with the artificial slub yarn, created a unique texture.
Hardware: Specifications reflecting the brand’s identity were employed.
Stitching: Stitching on the back pockets is presumed to have been designed with vintage aesthetics in mind.
Silhouette: “RARE” being a line name suggests that a model lineage equivalent to the M1002 Straight likely existed within this line.

How to Distinguish Authenticity and Age (Vintage vs. Replica)

When identifying vintage BIG JOHN M1002 or RARE line pieces, several points are crucial.

Tabs & Patches: The design of the back pocket tab, and the type and labeling of the leather or paper patch (including the presence or absence of “small e,” which can be compared to Levi’s) are key indicators for dating.
Selvedge: The color and width of the red ear, along with the weave of the fabric (e.g., the naturalness of the slub), suggest the manufacturing period and fabric characteristics. Particularly, the artificial slub yarn in the RARE line may offer some distinguishing features due to its processing characteristics.
Hardware: Engravings on rivets and buttons, as well as the material feel, are also elements that change with age.
Stitching: The pattern, thread color, and sewing method of the back pocket stitching exhibit characteristics specific to different eras.
Inner Tags & Care Labels: If washing instructions, size notations, or manufacturing dates are present, they provide direct information for dating.

Replica models attempt to faithfully reproduce these vintage details, but distinctions can be made through the texture of the material, nuances in aging, and subtle differences in fine details. In particular, the “unnaturalness” of artificial slub yarn or the “overly uniform” appearance of the fabric can be perceived as characteristic of replicas.

Appearances by Notable Figures and Cultural Scenes

BIG JOHN jeans, due to their quality and pioneering status in Japanese denim, have appeared in numerous cultural scenes and on the bodies of many notable figures. Especially, early models like the M1002 and the RARE line are highly regarded among Japanese denim enthusiasts and collectors, and are frequently featured in fashion magazines and specialized denim media.

Even in international denim media such as Heddels, Denimio, Ropedye, and Indigoshrimp, BIG JOHN is recognized as an indispensable brand when discussing the “origins of Japanese denim,” and their innovative endeavors are praised. Notably, the fact that the RARE line pioneered elements like artificial slub yarn and Japanese Selvedge even before the vintage reproduction trend truly took off is a remarkable achievement in the history of Japanese denim manufacturing.

Current Acquisition Channels (Vintage Market & Replica Brands)

Currently, vintage BIG JOHN M1002 and RARE line pieces can primarily be acquired through the following channels:

Vintage Clothing Stores: These can be found not only in Japan but also in overseas vintage shops if you’re fortunate. As these are one-of-a-kind items, careful consideration of condition, size, and price is necessary.
Online Auctions & Flea Markets: Platforms like Mercari, Yahoo Auctions, and eBay may feature vintage items listed by individuals. While there’s a chance of finding a gem, authenticity and condition verification are at your own risk.
Specialized Resale Shops: Vintage stores specializing in denim and American casual wear often have relatively well-preserved vintage items.

On the other hand, BIG JOHN continues to manufacture and sell jeans that carry on its legacy.

BIG JOHN Official Online Store: The M1002 designation remains an icon of the brand and is available for purchase as a model with modern interpretations. Limited edition items that are reissues of past models, such as 50th-anniversary models, may also be released.
Select Shops: BIG JOHN’s latest collections are also carried by fashion select shops both domestically and internationally.

Conclusion

From the debut of the M1002 First Model in 1968 to the launch of the RARE line in 1983, BIG JOHN has pioneered numerous “firsts” in the history of Japanese jeans. The M1002 Japan-Model achieving the milestone of “fully Japanese-made fabric” and the RARE line pioneering “Japanese Selvedge x Slub Yarn” are crucial achievements in the evolution of Japanese denim manufacturing technology and the development of Kojima denim. The unique lineage where the single model M1002 has carried different “firsts” through each era, and the fact that the brand was exploring this direction even before the vintage reproduction trend emerged, are indispensable elements when discussing BIG JOHN.

These endeavors by BIG JOHN transcend mere clothing; they are a cultural heritage born from Japan’s manufacturing spirit and a deep exploration of denim as a material. Their history continues to captivate many denim enthusiasts and is passed down to the next generation.

【1968-1983】BIG JOHN M1002 and RARE: The Genesis of Japanese Jeans and Selvedge