Steve McQueen and Levi's 501 in 'Bullitt': From 1950s Rebellion to 1960s Everyday Cool

1. Steve McQueen: The “King of Cool” Who Transcended Eras

In the 1960s, American cinema had its standard for coolness redefined by one man: Steve McQueen. His commanding presence on screen and his sophisticated off-screen lifestyle captivated audiences, solidifying his title as the “King of Cool.” At the core of his appeal was not just his acting prowess, but the style he embodied. Eschewing ostentatious embellishments, his understated yet impactful attire possessed a timeless allure that defied trends and fads. Persol 714 sunglasses, Belstaff jackets, and, most importantly, his beloved Levi’s 501 jeans – these were not mere garments but essential elements that shaped the McQueen icon.

2. McQueen, the ‘Bullitt’ Era, and the Off-Screen Myth of the 501

Released in 1968, the film ‘Bullitt’ features a car chase scene through the streets of San Francisco in a Ford Mustang that remains a legendary moment in cinematic history. However, costume scholarship now generally agrees that Detective Frank Bullitt’s signature on-screen look is a navy cashmere turtleneck, a bespoke herringbone tweed three-button sport coat tailor-made for McQueen by costume designer Theadora Van Runkle (the lining’s tattersall check evokes Aquascutum’s “Club 92” pattern, but the coat itself is bespoke), beige chinos, and Hutton’s Original Playboy two-eyelet suede chukka boots — and that 501 jeans are not the iconic on-screen pairing this article originally suggested (per Theadora Van Runkle’s records, ‘Bullitt’ production stills, and BAMF Style / Bonhams catalogues).

What ‘Bullitt’ did do for the 501 was happen in parallel with Steve McQueen’s own off-screen, private wardrobe — in which Levi’s 501 jeans were a constant. Studio promotional photos, home and garage shots, and trackside images from the 12 Hours of Sebring routinely show McQueen in 501s, and the cultural success of ‘Bullitt’ carried that off-screen image into mainstream visibility. The McQueen of the ‘Bullitt’ era (1968) lived a duality: turtleneck on screen, 501 in private life. This article focuses on the McQueen-of-1968 private 501 — its dating details, and how that off-screen pair completed the cultural arc that took the 501 from “rebellion” to “cool.”

McQueen’s 1968 private 501s were, by the dating details, the “Big E” tab version. Used from 1936 to 1971, the “Big E” was a hallmark of the 501 during that era, and for a 1968 pair the presence of the “Big E” is definitive. It was also a post-1955 pair, having transitioned from a leather patch to a Jacron paper patch. Furthermore, by 1966, the hidden rivets on the back pockets had been eliminated and replaced with bar tacks (X-tack). Therefore, McQueen’s private 501 in the ‘Bullitt’ era is best read as the 1968-era specification — “Big E”, Jacron paper patch, no hidden rivets (X-tack only). Riding on the cinematic success of ‘Bullitt’, young male audiences first met Detective Frank Bullitt’s on-screen turtleneck look in theaters, and then encountered McQueen’s own off-screen 501s through post-release publicity stills and LIFE-magazine-style spreads — a two-track exposure that is what cemented the “King of Cool” image.

3. From Symbol of Rebellion to “Cool” Everyday Wear

Since its inception, Levi’s 501 jeans have been favored by laborers and cowboys, individuals associated with a tough and honest image. This perception was further solidified in the 1950s. Marlon Brando’s 1953 film ‘The Wild One’, where he donned Levi’s 501XX, positioned the jeans as a symbol of “rebellion” and “delinquency,” garnering immense support among young people. Brando’s 501s became a biker uniform, a visual icon of defiance against society.

However, when Steve McQueen wore 501s privately around the time of ‘Bullitt’, the cultural significance of the jeans underwent a profound transformation. McQueen’s 501s were no longer solely a symbol of “rebellion.” They were elevated to a “cool” style, effortlessly worn by a mature man in his everyday life. Carried by the cinematic success of ‘Bullitt’ running in parallel with McQueen’s unmistakable off-screen presence, the 501 simultaneously conveyed toughness, honesty, and a sophisticated urban sensibility, truly becoming a “man’s everyday uniform.” Following the film’s release, the 501 gained wider appeal beyond young males, contributing to the expansion of Levi’s production capacity to the extent that they eventually changed the tab’s inscription from Big E to small e in 1971. McQueen, in essence, completed the cultural arc of the 501, transforming it from “rebellion” to “cool.”

4. Steve McQueen’s Preferred Levi’s 501 from 1968

McQueen’s private 501s in the ‘Bullitt’ era can be precisely dated through their detailed specifications. A circa-1968 pair carries the following characteristics:

• Brand/Model: Levi’s 501
• Year: Circa 1968
• Tab: “Big E” (“LEVI’S” in capital letters; 1936-1971)
• Patch: Jacron Paper Patch (post-1955)
• Hidden Rivets: None (eliminated in 1966 and replaced with bar tacks/X-tack)
• Fabric: Right-Hand Twill (RHT) 3x1 Selvedge Denim from Cone Mills White Oak
• Dye: Indigo via Rope Dyeing
• Fly: Button fly (the zipper-fly 501Z is a separate sub-line introduced in 1954)

Note that the mainline 501 in 1968 was traditionally shrink-to-fit (unsanforized rigid denim), and sanforization was not the standard specification of the mainline 501 (Levi’s still markets 005010000 “501 Original Shrink-to-fit” today as the unsanforized direct descendant). The legacy claim that “sanforization has been the standard since 1936” therefore does not match the period spec of the mainline 501, and we have removed it from the Bullitt-era 501 detail list.

These details show the post-war evolution of the 501 — cinch removed in 1947, leather patch replaced by Jacron paper patch in 1955, hidden rivets eliminated and replaced with X-tack in 1966 — converging step by step toward the modern spec. The “Big E” tab and the absence of hidden rivets in particular remain crucial indicators for dating vintage denim.

5. Embracing That “Cool” Today

The “cool” everyday style established by Steve McQueen during the ‘Bullitt’ era through his off-screen Levi’s 501 jeans remains timeless. If you wish to recreate that era’s atmosphere today, you can acquire items through the following methods:

• Vintage Market: For the most authentic experience, searching vintage denim shops is the best approach. “Big E” era 501s from around 1968, if Deadstock, can fetch from ¥80,000 to ¥250,000, and worn pairs from ¥30,000 to ¥120,000 (Japanese vintage shop prices). Prices fluctuate based on condition and rarity, but you can experience the authentic texture of that time.
• Current Levi’s: Levi’s continues to offer meticulously reproduced models in their “Vintage Collection” or “LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing)” lines. These collections sometimes include models with the “Big E” tab and details mirroring the specifications of the era. While not as rare as vintage items, they are newer, relatively easier to obtain, and simpler to care for.
• Items Branded “Steve McQueen”: In recent years, brands licensed by Steve McQueen or those that pay homage to him have released denim items that evoke his signature style of the time. These items often feature updated comfort and silhouettes alongside designs reminiscent of his look.

Levi’s 501s are more than just jeans. They are a living history that has evolved with the times, carrying diverse cultural meanings. The “cool” everyday style completed by Steve McQueen during the ‘Bullitt’ era through his off-screen 501s continues to be an object of admiration for many and shines as a cornerstone of fashion.