DENIME Type 66: The Lineage of Yoshifumi Hayashi's Levi's 501 1966 Model Reproduction

DENIME Type 66: The Lineage of Levi’s 501 1966 Model Reproduction

Introduction

More than just clothing, denim continues to captivate enthusiasts as a mirror reflecting historical context and culture. Among these, replica jeans, meticulously recreating specific eras of denim, are born from respect for originals and a quest for lost details. The DENIME “Type 66” discussed here, a representative early model from the brand, was created with the Levi’s 501 1966 model (hereinafter referred to as the ‘66 model) in mind. Its inception marks a significant chapter in the history of Japanese jean reproduction, deeply reflecting the passion of its founder, Yoshifumi Hayashi, and the trends of the denim market at the time.

Historical Context — Birth Year and Brand Context

DENIME was founded in 1988 by Yoshifumi Hayashi. After gaining experience in Orange County and at Orizzonti, Hayashi established his own brand, DENIME. Orizzonti, meaning “horizon” in Italian, was one of the key brands that spearheaded the second wave of Japan’s vintage replica jeans in the late 1980s and 1990s. Following the establishment of Studio D’Artisan in 1979, DENIME’s founding in 1988 places it relatively early among the “Osaka Five” group of replica brands.

During this period, original vintage jeans were becoming increasingly expensive and difficult to obtain. This led to a surge in demand for replica jeans that faithfully reproduced the unique textures and details of the originals. DENIME’s “Type 66” was born precisely to meet these market needs, targeting the ‘66 model of the Levi’s 501, a pivotal moment in Levi’s history.

Structural Details — Selvedge, Hardware, Stitching, Silhouette

DENIME’s “Type 66” aimed to reproduce the characteristics of the original Levi’s 501 ‘66 model using the production technology of the time in Japan.

• Fabric: Right-Hand Twill (RHT) selvedge denim is used. Original Levi’s ‘66 model fabrics, such as those made by Cone Mills White Oak, are often discussed as being around 13oz. For the DENIME Type 66, the goal was to achieve a comparable weight. Slub yarn was intentionally used for the warp to create a unique texture and a deep fade pattern as the jeans were worn. It is important to conceptually distinguish between the yarn irregularities resulting from the spinning precision of that era and the intentional specifications by replica brands.
• Dyeing: Traditional rope dyeing with Indigo Dye is applied. This process is designed to make the aging effects, such as vertical fading, whiskers, and honeycombs, appear more prominent and beautiful as the jeans are worn over time.
• Hardware:
  • Buttons: Buttons with original engravings are used.
  • Rivets: While the Levi’s 501 ‘66 model featured copper-plated steel rivets, it is presumed that DENIME’s Type 66 used similar materials.
  • Patch: One of the most significant features of the ‘66 model was the transition from leather patches to a paper-based back patch (waist patch) called Jacron. Reflecting this historical shift, the DENIME Type 66 also adopted a paper patch (Jacron-based). The precise materials used for early DENIME patches are sometimes confirmed through contemporary documents and collector exchanges.
• Stitching:
  • Bar Tack (X-tack): Reinforcements using bar tacks (X-tacks), which began to be adopted by Levi’s 501 around 1966, are applied to areas like the back pockets and crotch. This was a crucial detail to enhance durability after the discontinuation of hidden rivets.
  • Arcuate Stitching: The distinctive arcuate stitching on the back pockets follows the original design.
  • Hemming: The hems are finished with chain stitching, a standard for vintage jeans.
• Red Tab: The ‘66 model is equipped with the Big E red tab, which was used until 1971. The DENIME Type 66 faithfully reproduces this “Big E” tab.
• Silhouette: The silhouette reproduces the slightly slim, tapered straight fit characteristic of the original ‘66 model. This can be considered a silhouette closer to modern wear compared to earlier models.

How to Distinguish Between Vintage and Replica (Authenticity and Era)

DENIME’s Type 66 is, after all, a replica jean that “reproduces” the Levi’s 501 ‘66 model. Therefore, when comparing an original vintage ‘66 model with DENIME’s Type 66, several points are worth noting:

• Brand Tag: The most obvious difference is the brand logo. The original has Levi’s brand patches and tabs, while DENIME uses patches and tabs with its own brand logo and model name.
• Country of Manufacture: The original Levi’s ‘66 model is made in the USA, whereas DENIME’s Type 66 is manufactured in Japan.
• Minute Details: Replica brands strive to reproduce originals, but differences can be seen in subtle aspects such as fabric materials, dyeing depth, hardware texture, and stitch tension. For example, the texture of the intentionally used slub yarn in DENIME’s Type 66 and its aging patterns may differ from those of the original.
• Degree of Aging: While DENIME’s Type 66 also ages over time, the worn-in feel after years of wear and washing differs from that of an original vintage jean.
• Serial Numbers and Lots: Early lots of DENIME’s Type 66 may have information indicating the manufacturing year or lot number. Comparing these can provide clues to dating.

Key characteristics of the original ‘66 model include the discontinuation of hidden rivets (from 1966), the Jacron paper patch (from 1955), the Big E Red Tab (1936-1971), and Right-Hand Twill (RHT) selvedge denim. DENIME’s Type 66 reproduces these details, and its faithfulness is highly regarded.

Notable Figures and Cultural Appearances

DENIME’s Type 66 was prominently featured in numerous fashion magazines during the American casual boom of the 1990s. Publications like Boon, Lightning, and Free & Easy frequently showcased replica jeans, including DENIME’s Type 66, raising the interest of many young people in denim. These magazines conveyed the history of jeans, the appeal of “raw denim,” and the enjoyment of aging to their readers, laying the groundwork for brands like DENIME to gain popularity.

While specific anecdotes of celebrities wearing DENIME’s Type 66 are not clearly documented, for many who embraced the American casual style of the time, DENIME was a brand to aspire to, and its Type 66 was an accessible and authentic option for experiencing the legendary Levi’s 501 ‘66 model.

Current Availability (Vintage Market and Replica Brands)

As an early model from the brand’s inception, DENIME’s Type 66 is extremely difficult to obtain new. However, due to its popularity and rarity, attempts can be made through the following channels:

• Vintage Market:
  • Auction Sites: They are sometimes listed on online auction sites like Yahoo! Auctions and eBay. Prices vary significantly depending on the condition, size, and model (early lot vs. later specification changes, etc.).
  • Used Clothing Stores and Select Shops: Specialty stores dealing in vintage wear or some select shops may carry them as second-hand items.
• Replica Brands:
  • The DENIME brand itself continues to operate and may release “Type 66” models in later years as re-reproductions of earlier models. However, specifications and materials may differ from the initial models, so it is important to confirm the detailed specifications when purchasing.
  • The Levi’s brand itself occasionally releases reproductions of the ‘66 model.

Original Levi’s 501 ‘66 models are even rarer, and items in good condition command high prices. DENIME’s Type 66 is an item that combines historical value and fashionability, serving as an entry point into the world of vintage denim.

Conclusion

DENIME’s Type 66 is more than just a reproduction jean; it signifies a crucial step in the history of Japanese vintage denim reproduction. It is the culmination of founder Yoshifumi Hayashi’s efforts, through the technology and passion of the era, to recreate the Levi’s 501 ‘66 model, a particularly noteworthy model in jean history. The attention to detail, including the selvedge denim, Big E red tab, paper patch, and bar tacks, is a testament to the deep respect for the original and captivated the hearts of denim enthusiasts at the time.

Today, DENIME’s Type 66 is being re-evaluated in the vintage market and is sought after by many denim lovers as an item symbolizing the American casual culture of that era. This pair serves as a bridge connecting past styles to the present and opens the door to the profound world of denim.