FULL COUNT 1101: The Iconic Founding Model Launched by Yoshiharu Tsujita After His Departure from EVIS (1993)

FULL COUNT 1101: The Iconic Founding Model Launched by Yoshiharu Tsujita After His Departure from EVIS (1993)

1. Introduction — The Cultural Significance of This Item

In the world of denim, there are masterpieces that transcend time and deserve to be passed down through generations. FULL COUNT’s “1101” is undoubtedly one such pair. In 1993, Mr. Yoshiharu Tsujita, a key figure among the “Osaka Five” who birthed numerous legendary denim brands, launched his own brand, “FULL COUNT,” after departing from EVIS (later EVISU). The very first model he released was this 1101. More than just a garment, it stands as a crucial milestone in the nascent era of Japanese replica denim, embodying the brand’s philosophy, and remains a beloved “Founding Classic Model” for countless denim enthusiasts. In this article, as a denim historian and a seasoned content writer, we will delve deeply into the historical background, details, and cultural significance of this iconic 1101.

2. Historical Background — Birth Year & Brand Context

The birth of the FULL COUNT 1101 dates back to a period when the Japanese denim scene was undergoing a significant transformation.

• 1991: Yoshiharu Tsujita, Hidehiko Yamane (later founder of EVISU), and the Shiotani brothers (later founders of WAREHOUSE & Co.) jointly established “EVIS jeans” in Osaka. This event symbolized the early stages of the “replica denim” movement, which aimed to faithfully reproduce American vintage jeans.
• End of 1992: Due to differing philosophies and directions within the brand, Mr. Tsujita became independent. At this point, he began manufacturing jeans under the FULL COUNT name, initially using materials primarily from American cotton.
• 1993: “FULL COUNT” was officially incorporated as a company, and the brand’s landmark inaugural model, Lot 1101, was released. This marked the dawn of the FULL COUNT legacy.
• 1994: Mr. Tsujita encountered “Zimbabwe cotton,” which would become the cornerstone of the brand’s material strategy. This encounter represented a major turning point in the brand’s fabric development.
• 1995: Lot 1108 was released. This model, a slim-straight fit based on the Levi’s 1947 501, was characterized by its fabric that leveraged the properties of Zimbabwe cotton.

As such, the 1101 is a model born at the very moment the FULL COUNT brand came into being, occupying an extremely important position in shaping the brand’s identity.

3. Detailed Construction — Selvedge, Hardware, Stitching, Silhouette

Let’s examine the details that made the FULL COUNT 1101 crucial as a founding classic model, laying the groundwork for the brand’s future.

• Fabric (Selvedge Denim): It is said that the early 1101 models used fabric based on American cotton. The adoption of Zimbabwe cotton came after 1994, suggesting that the founding-era 1101 was characterized by the unique texture derived from American cotton. While specific fabric specifications such as ounce weight, yarn count, and weave density await detailed confirmation from primary sources, the design philosophy appears to have aimed at replicating vintage aesthetics while also considering modern wearability, as was common for replica jeans of that era.
• Hardware: Copper-plated materials were used for the rivets, following the details of vintage jeans. The 5-button fly is a characteristic of the FULL COUNT lineage and is believed to have been used in the 1101 as well. Minor variations in details, such as the presence or absence of hidden rivets, may be observed depending on the lot and year of manufacture, making them important identifying points for collectors.
• Stitching: Unlike Levi’s “Arcuate” stitching, the back pockets feature FULL COUNT’s unique stitching work. This is a crucial element signifying the brand’s identity and showcases the warmth of the craftsmanship from that era.
• Silhouette: The 1101 is positioned as the classic straight silhouette from the brand’s founding period. The fit, referencing the golden era of Levi’s 501XX (1940s-1950s), is thought to have been adjusted to blend the timeless appeal of vintage jeans with modern fashion styles. The subsequent release of the 1108, a slim-straight model based on the Levi’s 1947 501 fit, further suggests that the 1101 adhered to a more classic straight line.

4. How to Distinguish Authenticity and Age (Vintage vs. Replica)

Early models of FULL COUNT’s 1101 in the vintage market are collector’s items due to their rarity. To distinguish authenticity and age, several points require attention.

• Patch: Early models show variations in materials and design. While the current 1108 model features a goat-skin leather patch, it is crucial to confirm the material used in the founding-era 1101 through primary sources. A comparison with the period when Levi’s patches transitioned from leather to paper (around the mid-1950s) is also informative.
• Selvedge: The weave width and color of the selvedge, as well as the specifications of the red tab, can also provide clues for dating. FULL COUNT’s tab is distinct from Levi’s “Big E” tab (1936-1971).
• Hardware: Detailed observation of the markings, materials, and plating condition of buttons and rivets can help estimate the manufacturing period.
• Stitching: The stitch design of the back pockets, thread thickness, and color may also show subtle changes depending on the lot and year.
• Fabric Aging: Vintage 1101 models exhibit unique fading and wear patterns from repeated wear and washing. The pattern and depth of this aging suggest how long and in what manner the individual pair has been worn.

As a replica brand, FULL COUNT has, since its inception, produced products that incorporate modern interpretations while paying homage to vintage jeans. Therefore, the term “replica” should be understood not as mere imitation, but in a positive sense of reviving the charm of vintage for contemporary times.

5. Notable Figures & Cultural Appearances

There are currently no confirmed records of the FULL COUNT 1101 being frequently worn by specific celebrities or making prominent media appearances. However, its cultural presence is discussed within the broader context of the Japanese denim scene.

FULL COUNT is a member of the “Osaka Five,” a group of denim brands that Japan proudly presents to the world. On the timeline, FULL COUNT is positioned in the middle, following brands like Studio D’Artisan (1979), DENIME (1988), and EVISU (1991), and preceding WAREHOUSE (1995). While these brands each possessed distinct philosophies, they shared a deep love for vintage denim and a passion for recreating it for the modern era.

The 1101 was born precisely within this movement, serving as the “face” of the brand. Its existence signifies not just a single jean model, but also FULL COUNT’s contribution to the development of replica denim in Japan. For many denim enthusiasts and fashion industry professionals, FULL COUNT is a brand discussed alongside keywords like “comfortable feel” and “Zimbabwe cotton,” and the 1101 is the model that laid its foundation.

6. Current Availability (Vintage Market & Replica Brands)

Early models of the FULL COUNT 1101, particularly deadstock or vintage pieces in good condition, are now highly sought after and not easily obtained.

• Vintage Market: These can primarily be found in select shops, used clothing stores, and online auction sites, both domestically and internationally. As these are one-of-a-kind items, sizes, conditions, and prices vary significantly. Well-preserved examples can command high prices among collectors.
• Replica Brands: FULL COUNT continues to exist as a brand today and manufactures and sells the 1101 (or similar models) as a classic offering. New 1101 models can be purchased from the brand’s official online store and authorized retailers nationwide. While replicating the details of the original era, these contemporary versions are updated with modern technology and materials, making them comfortable to wear and built to be cherished for a long time.

7. Conclusion

The FULL COUNT 1101 is the iconic founding classic model released in 1993 when Yoshiharu Tsujita launched FULL COUNT after his departure from EVIS. It represented a crucial step in the nascent era of Japanese replica denim, establishing the brand’s identity and laying the groundwork for its future development.

The fabric based on American cotton (in its early days), hardware and stitching that followed vintage standards, and its timeless straight silhouette conveyed the brand’s philosophy and sincere commitment to craftsmanship to denim enthusiasts of the time. The DNA of FULL COUNT, which would later embrace Zimbabwe cotton to pursue an even softer feel, was already present in this 1101.

While early 1101 models are becoming rare finds in the vintage market, the spirit of the founding era is undoubtedly carried on in the current models available new. The FULL COUNT 1101 is more than just a pair of jeans; it is a significant testament in Japanese denim history and a crystallization of craftsmanship loved across generations.